Saudi Arabia

Saudi’s once closed borders were opened to tourists only a few years ago. And with the country’s relaxed attitude to dress codes and its enthusiasm to embrace Western Tourism, we’ve now got a chance to explore some of the finest and yet little-known wildscapes in the World.

The Asir Mountains of Southwestern Arabia are part of a globally important biogeographic hotspot that includes the mountains over the border in Yemen. These lush green mountains have been isolated for aeons by the deserts of the empty quarter and the arid lowlands of the Tihamat and the Red Sea itself. Saudi Arabians flock to the regional capital Abha, the base for our visit, during the summer months because of its greenery and relatively cool climate. The highest peaks close to the city reach nearly 10,000 feet above sea level and cloud and fog often cloak the florally extremely diverse escarpment. Dominant at these higher altitudes are forests of Juniperus procera but there is a range of trees such as Celtis africana, Maytenus undata, Rhus rhetinorrhoea, Olea chrysophylla, and the unusual and beautiful shrubby Rumex nervosus. There are plenty of floral surprises here from the magnificent purple pompons of Centaurothamnus maximus to the lovely yellow-flowered Evotrochis verticillata half Dionysia and half Primula. There are beautiful Barlerias, large Plectranthus, clambering Ceropigias and brilliant red Hibiscus. Hamadryas Baboons, African Paradise-Flycatcher and Sunbirds hint at the affinities with Africa as do woody plants such as a range of Grewia species, Nuxia oppositifolia, Tarchonanthus camphoratus, many Vachellia species, and the Tree Aloe Aloe sabaea. Both Arabian and Philby’s Partridges are common, as are Arabian Green Bee-eater and Rameron Pigeon. The Asir has many endemic birds and we’ll see Yemen Warbler, Yemen Thrush, Yemen Linnet and the Arabian Woodpecker, and Arabia’s rarest endemic bird, the Asir Magpie! We’ll visit the remarkable and stunningly beautiful ‘gingerbread’ village of Rijal whilst clinging to a cliff the hanging village of Hapala looks impossible to reach on foot from above and difficult from below. These ‘hanging villages’ were built as defensive positions and they would have been remarkably difficult to attack. A cable car takes us down amongst the buildings where we can explore the narrow streets and largely abandoned gardens now full of a remarkably luxuriant and very species rich vegetation. Yemen Serins feed along the clifftop.

Al’ula’s fantastic and fantastical landscapes have caught the World’s imagination in recent times with the result that there are now a number of very fine resorts nestling in the spectacular landscapes at the foot of the Hijaz Mountains. These wild and enigmatic desert landscapes of sandstone canyons, volcanic plains and fascinating rock formations are softened by luscious oases full of date palm and citrus trees. It has been conjectured that the Hijaz was the source of the ancient Pishon River thought to be one of the four rivers associated with the Garden of Eden. We will explore the beautiful canyons of the Sharaan Nature Reserve, the extraordinary black and white volcanos of Khaybar, and the heart of the region, the Oasis of the Wadi Al Qura.

The strange architectural species of Cynomorium coccineum and Cistanche violacea, colourful parasites both, emerge from the sands of the ancient Nabatean Site of Hegra, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is the southern end of the same kingdom that ruled Petra and if anything is even more spectacular than that ancient site. Sinai Rosefinches and Tristram’s Grackles inhabit every desert wadi here with plentiful Ménétriés’s Warblers and White-crowned Wheatears. The mammalian fauna of Sharaan is still largely intact and we’ll likely encounter the Arabian Gazelles which graze between the great rock walls that characterize the landscape here. Nubian Ibex are tolerably common and we may well encounter the re-introduced herds of Arabian Oryx. We’re allowed in at night too so have dinner under the stars and go star-gazing – the skies here are famously free of light pollution and crystal-sharp – but we’ll have our eyes set elsewhere as we look for African Wild Cat, Sand Cat, Arabian Jerboa, Blandford’s Fox and Honey Badger.