Kyrgyzia

Over ninety per cent of Kyrgyzia lies above the top of the UK’s highest mountain! Independent after the collapse of Soviet rule in Central Asia, this stunningly beautiful country never actually existed before the Soviet Union, rather it was invented (as an autonomous region) in the 1920s by Stalin. Perhaps not surprising then that few of us know much about this land of alpine lakes, fast-flowing rivers, rolling steppelands, conifer forests and rare walnut forests that lie between the arms of the giant snow-capped peaks of the Celestial Mountains.

Unlike neighbouring Kazakhstan it is easy to explore many high passes by road in Kyrgyzia. Paeonia hybrida forms stands by the roadside and we’ll see White-tailed Rubythroats, Bluethroats and Rosefinches as we head higher. Now it will be the turn of Aconitums, Primulas, Anemone protracta, and both Trollius dzungaricus and Trollius altaicus. Fritillaria walujewi hang their tessellated bells alongside Pulsatilla campanella and beautiful spires of the foxtail lily Eremurus tienshanicus.

In the valleys are Rollers, Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters and Red-headed Buntings, pretty Ligularia naryensis, Iris lactea, and lovely Allardia tridactylites, the pink ‘asters’ held above silvery mounds of foliage. Plain Mountain Finches and Güldenstadt’s Redstart pose amongst Chorispora bungeana, Androsaces and ice-blue Trollius lilacina in the achingly beautiful landscapes around Song Kul whilst lower down are meadows with Cortusa turkestanica, Primula turkestanica, vari-coloured Alliums, and the pendant blue cups of the borage Lindelofia stylosa. Caspian Plovers display over a landscape replete with the decorative mat-forming sages Dracocephalum paulsenii and Dracocephalum origanoides. Yellow Tulipa heterophylla and Tulipa dasystemon will remind us spring is late in these high mountains. Iris halophila comes in yellow or blue forms, Saussurea glacialis is that quintessential dalek of the screes, and slopes are alight with the tall yellow wands of Eremurus fuscus.

Paraquilegia caespitosa blooms spectacularly on nearby cliffs and Lammergeier, Himalayan Griffon and Golden Eagle soar overhead. We’ll visit petroglyphs of stark beauty whilst amongst amazing red rock formations bloom strange Lagochilus platyacanthus, Polemonium caucasicus, Pedicularis pubiflora, and blue Iris ruthenica. The mountains that rise to the south and east of scenic Lake Issyk-Kol are the highest and wildest in the country. Here road passes take us up close to 4000m whilst we’ve the comforts of the relatively mild climate along the lake shore at a mere 1770m at night! There are some staggeringly beautiful alpines on these high passes – Primula pamirica, Callianthemum alatavicum, Saussureas, darkest ruby Aquilegia atrovinosa and Cystocorydalis fedtschenkoana. Cushion plants of great beauty include blue mounds of Eritrichium villosum, yellow Draba oreades, and choice white-flowered domes of Androsace dasyphylla. Other botanical treasures worthy of mention are white Trollius komarovii, yellow Saxifraga macrocalyx, gorgeous Viola thianschanica andpretty-in-pink Parrya stenocarpa.