A little visited gem that still has unbelievable carpets of emerald rain forests stretching to the horizon in every direction dissected by numerous serpentine rivers. The vast stands of virgin forests held superb butterflies, the fearsome bushmaster and seven species of primate including the lightning fast Guinan Saki a challenge to keep up with as it zipped through the canopy. Insignificant clearings near rock outcrops were actually the lekking ground of the indescribable Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock and along the rivers were Agami Herons, Anaconda and Black Skimmers with side channels leading to hidden peaceful lagoons peppered with the giant lily pads of Victoria amazonica who immense white flowers opened at dusk. Simple uncrowded lodges staffed by friendly English-speaking Amerindian people added to the laid back charm. And then there was the stunning centrepiece of Kaieteur Falls and its magnificent surroundings virtually unsullied by tourism with no safety barriers, just pure wild nature. Chris Gardner
